New Year Shopping in Iran

Nowruz celebration a time for regeneration and new clothes.
March 23, 2011
The streets of Tehran fill with shoppers ahead of the Nowruz festival. (Photo: Farshid Alyan)
The streets of Tehran fill with shoppers ahead of the Nowruz festival. (Photo: Farshid Alyan)
Luxury items like gold would normally sell well ahead of the Iranian new year, but times are hard at the moment. (Photo: Farshid Alyan)
Luxury items like gold would normally sell well ahead of the Iranian new year, but times are hard at the moment. (Photo: Farshid Alyan)
Street traders try to undercut the shops and market stalls. (Photo: Farshid Alyan)
Street traders try to undercut the shops and market stalls. (Photo: Farshid Alyan)
Fruit and nuts are essential for entertaining at Nowruz. (Photo: Farshid Alyan)
Fruit and nuts are essential for entertaining at Nowruz. (Photo: Farshid Alyan)
Goldfish are sold as a symbol of new life. (Photo: Farshid Alyan)
Goldfish are sold as a symbol of new life. (Photo: Farshid Alyan)
Women's clothes on sale at a Tehran market. (Photo: Farshid Alyan)
Women's clothes on sale at a Tehran market. (Photo: Farshid Alyan)
These fish will go into a dish with pilau rice and vegetables, a mainstay of Nowruz. (Photo: Farshid Alyan)
These fish will go into a dish with pilau rice and vegetables, a mainstay of Nowruz. (Photo: Farshid Alyan)
Miniature copies of the Koran, which is always present on a Nowruz festive table together with seven foodstuffs whose names begin with S. (Photo: Farshid Alyan)
Miniature copies of the Koran, which is always present on a Nowruz festive table together with seven foodstuffs whose names begin with S. (Photo: Farshid Alyan)
After a day's shopping, time for tea – in this case in an ornate cafe. (Photo: Farshid Alyan)
After a day's shopping, time for tea – in this case in an ornate cafe. (Photo: Farshid Alyan)
Some shops specialise in selling all the "haft sin" ("seven S") foodstuffs so that shoppers do not have to go round looking for them. (Photo: Farshid Alyan)
Some shops specialise in selling all the "haft sin" ("seven S") foodstuffs so that shoppers do not have to go round looking for them. (Photo: Farshid Alyan)

For Iranians, the start of spring is marked by Nowruz, the traditional new year according to the solar calendar, and the date serves as a reminder to make a fresh start.

In the run-up to the Nowruz celebration, families go on a shopping spree, even though many are on a tight budget these days because times are hard.

If you take a walk round various markets in the capital Tehran, it is clear that people have less purchasing power than before, so the tradition of renewal is limited to essentials like clothing and shoes. Inflation and the reduction in subsidies on fuel, foodstuffs and other items mean there is little left over for more expensive goods like carpets and home appliances.

To bring in the new year, which is marked on March 21, Iranians clean their homes and if possible make some changes there to symbolise “becoming new with the new year”. Every household lays a table with “haft sin” – seven foodstuffs beginning with S. From “sabzeh” – green shoots symbolising rebirth – to apples (“sib”) for health, each item has its own meaning.

Farshid Alyan is the pseudonym of a Tehran-based journalist and photographer.

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