Armenian Church Tradition Strong in Iran

World's oldest Christian nation retains strong separate identity in Islamic state.
August 30, 2010
The Black Church (St Thaddeus Monastery) near Urmieh in northwest Iran. The tents belong to Armenians who come here as pilgrims from around Iran and the rest of the world. (Photo: Hasan Sarbakhshian)
The Black Church (St Thaddeus Monastery) near Urmieh in northwest Iran. The tents belong to Armenians who come here as pilgrims from around Iran and the rest of the world. (Photo: Hasan Sarbakhshian)
Choir at the Black Church. (Photo: Hasan Sarbakhshian)
Choir at the Black Church. (Photo: Hasan Sarbakhshian)
Priests at prayer in what many Armenians believe is the world’s oldest church site, founded by St Thaddeus, one of the Twelve Disciples. Ghareh-Kelisa. (Photo: Hasan Sarbakhshian)
Priests at prayer in what many Armenians believe is the world’s oldest church site, founded by St Thaddeus, one of the Twelve Disciples. Ghareh-Kelisa. (Photo: Hasan Sarbakhshian)
A girl prays at the Black Church. (Photo: Hasan Sarbakhshian)
A girl prays at the Black Church. (Photo: Hasan Sarbakhshian)
Aram I bears the title Catholicos of the Great House of Cilicia, which means he is head of the autonomous Armenian Apostolic Church in Middle Eastern states like Lebanon and Syria. (Photo: Hasan Sarbakhshian)
Aram I bears the title Catholicos of the Great House of Cilicia, which means he is head of the autonomous Armenian Apostolic Church in Middle Eastern states like Lebanon and Syria. (Photo: Hasan Sarbakhshian)
On April 24 every year, Armenians hold a demonstration in the central Tehran to remember those who died in mass killings in 1915 in Ottoman Turkey. (Photo: Hasan Sarbakhshian)
On April 24 every year, Armenians hold a demonstration in the central Tehran to remember those who died in mass killings in 1915 in Ottoman Turkey. (Photo: Hasan Sarbakhshian)
Bishops assemble at the Sarkis Cathedral in Tehran, built in 1970. (Photo: Hasan Sarbakhshian)
Bishops assemble at the Sarkis Cathedral in Tehran, built in 1970. (Photo: Hasan Sarbakhshian)
Ceremony to welcome Catholicos Aram to the Sarkis Cathedral. (Photo: Hasan Sarbakhshian)
Ceremony to welcome Catholicos Aram to the Sarkis Cathedral. (Photo: Hasan Sarbakhshian)
Armenian girl in Scout uniform at the ceremony. (Photo: Hasan Sarbakhshian)
Armenian girl in Scout uniform at the ceremony. (Photo: Hasan Sarbakhshian)
The choir of Sarkis Cathedral in Tehran. (Photo: Hasan Sarbakhshian)
The choir of Sarkis Cathedral in Tehran. (Photo: Hasan Sarbakhshian)
The Catholicos (right) at the cathedral in Tehran. (Photo: Hasan Sarbakhshian)
The Catholicos (right) at the cathedral in Tehran. (Photo: Hasan Sarbakhshian)
Devotions, Sarkis Cathedral, Tehran. (Photo: Hasan Sarbakhshian)
Devotions, Sarkis Cathedral, Tehran. (Photo: Hasan Sarbakhshian)
Sarkis Cathedral, Tehran. (Photo: Hasan Sarbakhshian)
Sarkis Cathedral, Tehran. (Photo: Hasan Sarbakhshian)
Prayers at Sarkis Cathedral. (Photo: Hasan Sarbakhshian)
Prayers at Sarkis Cathedral. (Photo: Hasan Sarbakhshian)
Aram I (centre) conducts the service with Archbishop Sebuh Sarkisian of Tehran (right). (Photo: Hasan Sarbakhshian)
Aram I (centre) conducts the service with Archbishop Sebuh Sarkisian of Tehran (right). (Photo: Hasan Sarbakhshian)
1915 genocide memorial in Sarkis Cathedral. (Photo: Hasan Sarbakhshian)
1915 genocide memorial in Sarkis Cathedral. (Photo: Hasan Sarbakhshian)
Bas-relief angel on the wall of the Black Church. Armenian church architecture traditionally showed fine carved relief work. (Photo: Hasan Sarbakhshian)
Bas-relief angel on the wall of the Black Church. Armenian church architecture traditionally showed fine carved relief work. (Photo: Hasan Sarbakhshian)
Armenian Scouts keep order at community and religious events. (Photo: Hasan Sarbakhshian)
Armenian Scouts keep order at community and religious events. (Photo: Hasan Sarbakhshian)
St Thaddeus Monastery became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2008. (Photo: Hasan Sarbakhshian)
St Thaddeus Monastery became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2008. (Photo: Hasan Sarbakhshian)
Icon in Vanak Church, Tehran. (Photo: Hasan Sarbakhshian)
Icon in Vanak Church, Tehran. (Photo: Hasan Sarbakhshian)
A couple enters Vanak Church for their marriage ceremony. (Photo: Hasan Sarbakhshian)
A couple enters Vanak Church for their marriage ceremony. (Photo: Hasan Sarbakhshian)
Wedding rite, Vanak Church, Tehran. (Photo: Hasan Sarbakhshian)
Wedding rite, Vanak Church, Tehran. (Photo: Hasan Sarbakhshian)

This photo-essay shows the religious life of the Armenian community in Iran. The first nation to embrace Christianity, they preserve their unique faith to this day.

But if their religion sets them apart from the Muslim majority, Armenians have historically contributed a great deal to Iran’s artistic life, education and commerce. Their cultural influence began spreading from the Julfa district of Isfahan after Shah Abbas transplanted them there from their homes in northwestern areas under his control in the 17th century.

These days, many are emigrating to the West, and to the United States in particular. Most speak of hopes for better economic prospects abroad, rather than cultural oppression at home. In fact, many of those who are most attached to their unique faith, culture and language will stay in Iran, where the unchanging patterns of life will not be upset by dislocation and adaptation to a new country.

Hasan Sarbakhshian is an Iranian photographer who worked for Associated Press for almost a decade. He has recently left Tehran for Washington DC.

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